Fashion Patterns by Coni : The Art of Proper Fit

Proper Fit by Connie Crawford
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Custom Tailored Jackets

Custom Tailored Jackets
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Description

Custom Tailored Jackets will help you discover the fashion industry method of constructing a woman's tailored jacket, commonly called "bagging the lining." It offers advice and techniques to help you make various styles. This book is an essential guide for the designer, patternmaker, costumer, and cottage industry designer wishing to make a professional looking tailored jacket.

A properly fitted, well-constructed tailored jacket should be seen as an advanced project, both in design and construction. This book allows you to feel confident in your tailoring and construction skills.
These types of tailored jackets are covered in this book:
  • Basic (Torso) Tailored Jacket (use CS1201)
  • Shoulder Princess Tailored Jacket (use CS1301)
  • Armhole Princess Tailored Jacket (use CS1302)
  • Dartless Tailored Jacket (new dartless blocks coming in 2016)

Method Summary:
  • Select a blouse block
  • Fit the blouse block
  • Develop the sleeve
  • Develop the jacket block
  • Add stylelines, collars, and pockets
  • Prepare the interfacing
  • Prepare the lining
  • Sew the finished garment
Before proceeding you should have a design to reference. In other words, have a clear picture of what you want to create. This can be a hand-drawn illustration or photograph. Just keep in mind that it is beyond the scope of this book to teach the intricacies of every type of styleline, collar, or pocket.

This books teaches how to make a custom-fit jacket using a popular set of styles based on the blocks listed above. Stylelines, collars and pockets are covered in the back. Please double-check your reference design with the table of contents to ensure that the styles in your design are also covered in this book.
Complete coverage of the most common design styles are included in Patternmaking Made Easy.

©2015, 66 pages, illustrated, softcover, spiral bound

Table of Contents


Custom Tailored Jackets
Introduction iv
  Project Overview v
Section 1: Getting Ready 1
  Pattern Markings 1
  Identifying Pattern Markings 1
  Pattern Terminology 2
  Seam Allowances 5
  Pattern Notching 6
  Uniform Notching Practices 6
Section 2: Fit & Develop 9
  Jacket Blocks / Slopers 9
  Fitting the Blouse Block / Sloper 10
  The Torso Jacket Block 12
  The Shoulder Princess Jacket Block 13
  The Armhole Princess Jacket Block 14
  The Dartless Jacket Block 15
  The Dartless Shirt Jacket Block 16
  The One-Piece Jacket Sleeve  17
  Lengthening the Sleeve 17
  The Two-Piece Jacket Sleeve  18
  Fitting the Jacket with the Jacket Sleeve  19
Section 3: Design & Draft 20
  Creating the Jacket Pattern 20
  See appendices for Design & Draft Options 37
Section 4: Shape & Support 22
  Selecting Interfacing for Jackets 22
  Interfacing Pattern Pieces 23
  Prepare the Lining Pieces 24
Section 5: Tailoring & Sewing 25
  Jacket Sewing Instructions 25
  Unlined Jacket with Enlarged Facing 34
Design & Draft Options  37
Appendix A: Stylelines 37
  Side Bust Dart 37
  Empire Styleline 38
  Armhole / Waist Demi-Princess  39
  Front Yoke Panel 40
Appendix B: Collars 41
  Convertible Collar 42
  Mandarin Collar 43
  Revere Collar 44
  Shawl Collar 46
  Notched Collar  49
  Double-Breasted Notched Collar  53
  Sport Hood 54
Appendix C: Pockets 55
  Lined Patch Pocket with Facing 55
  Welt Bound Pocket 57