Fashion Patterns by Coni : The Art of Proper Fit

Proper Fit by Connie Crawford
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Fitting Patterns Using Draping Techniques

Fitting Patterns Using Draping Techniques
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Drape-fitting is the oldest and longest continuous means of evaluating and correcting the fit of a garment. This fitting book offers solutions to solve fitting problems for bodices, blouses, dresses, jackets, sleeves, knits, skirts and pants by using the drape-fitting methods.

By following these draping solutions, the designer will learn how to proportion the garment and fit it correctly, without any obvious pulls and wrinkles. The designer will learn how to evaluate the hang of center front, center back and side seams.

As the finished style is placed on the body, the designer can see if the garment hangs correctly and adjusts naturally to the activities of the wearer. Each project demonstrates how to evaluate the various fitting areas, such as darts, shoulder seams and side seams, as well as ease amounts, sleeve caps, and crotch shapes. Design details, such as silhouette shape, dart shapes, and sleeve movement are also features that the designer will be able to review.

Any design that looks attractive will conceal the figure problems, flatter the face and body, and will be comfortable to wear.

©2011, 25 pp., illustrated, softcover

Table of Contents

Introduction of Fitting by Draping 1
Fitting Blouses, Dresses, or Jackets 2
  Front To Back Balance 2
  Side Seam Balance 3
  Armhole Balance 3
  Evaluate The Garment Design Fit 4
  Check The Front And Back Garment Hang 4
  Examine The Garment Ease 4
  Evaluate The Side Seams For Any Pulling Or Twisting 4
  Evaluate The Front Neck/Chest Area And The Back Neck Area 5
  Drape-Fit The Shoulder Seam 5
  Drape-Fit A Gapping Neckline 5
  Fit Princess Seams, Bust Cup And Hip Area 6
  Refit The Bust Cup Area 6
  Refit The Waistline Area 6
  Refit The Hip Area 6
  Evaluate The Location And Fit Of The Darts 7
  Evaluate The Overall Length Of The Design 7
Fitting Armholes and Sleeves 8
  Evaluate The Armhole Fit 8
  Check Sleeve Grainline And Hang 8
  Armhole Balance And Shape 9
  To Adjust Front Or Back Armhole Longer: 9
  To Adjust Front Or Back Armhole Shorter: 9
  Placement Of The Sleeve Cap Notches 9
  Check Sleeve For Pulling Or Twisting 10
  Armhole Size, Sleeve Is Too Tight Or Sleeve Is Too Loose 11
  Cap Height 12
  Sleeve Cap Ease 12
  Open Sleeve Cap To Add Ease 12
  Close Sleeve Cap To Reduce Ease 12
  Sleeve Movement 13
Fitting Knits 14
  Stretch And Recovery Ratios 14
  Determine The Fabric's Stretch Ratio 15
  Knit Categories By Stretch Ratio 15
  Determine The Fabric's Recovery Ratio 15
  Check The Pattern Details 16
Fitting Strapless Gowns 17
  Bustier Design Variations 17
  To Ensure A Well-Fitted Bustline: 18
  Design Variation For Torso Length And/Or Bra Design 18
  For The Torso-Length Design: 18
  For The Bra Design: 18
  Foundation Layer 19
  Foundation Fabric 19
  Types Of Boning 19
  Torso-Length And/Or Bra Design 19
Fitting Pants 20
  Check The Pant Balance 20
  Twisting Leg Problems 20
  Evaluate The Front And Back Crotch To Waist Distance 21
  Fine-Tune Waist To Crotch Distance 21
  Check The Pant Ease 22
  Evaluate The Center Front Crotch Fit 22
  Evaluate The Center Back Waist Fit 22
  Examine The Back Crotch Area 22
Fitting Skirts 23
  Check The Skirt Pattern Balance 23
  Evaluate The Hang Of The Skirt And Waistline Shape 24
  When The Skirt Is Pitching Upward Or Downward 24
  When There Is Excess Fabric Across The Hollow Of The Back Of The Skirt 24
  Create The Skirt Length Desired 24
  Check The Skirt Ease 24
Pattern Worksheet 25